There are many methods of exfoliation. Depending on your skin type and condition, you should choose a suitable and safe facial exfoliation method. Using the wrong method can easily irritate and damage your skin. Here are some suggestions for choosing exfoliating products for different skin types.
How to exfoliate dry skin:
Exfoliating dry skin is very important because this skincare step removes dry, flaky patches of skin. However, you should limit the use of physical exfoliants as they can make your skin even more flaky. Instead, you should use AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) products.
Option: AHAs. AHAs are chemical exfoliants that gently remove dead skin cells and dirt from the skin's surface, while also resurfacing the skin. They also offer benefits such as improved hydration, collagen regeneration, and stimulated skin cell rejuvenation.
Note: After using AHAs, you should increase your moisturizing and sunscreen use when going outside. AHAs make the skin more sensitive to sunlight. Without sun protection, the new skin layer will tan quickly, causing brown spots and rapid darkening. For this reason, you should only use AHAs at night, before going to bed.
How to exfoliate oily facial skin:
For oily skin (without acne), you can use both physical and chemical exfoliants.
If choosing a physical exfoliant: opt for products with small, fine, water-soluble particles such as brown sugar, sea salt, or clay. Avoid cheap products, as they may contain coarse particles that can scratch the skin. To exfoliate oily skin, wet your face, then use your hands to massage the fine particles onto your skin. Move your hands in circular motions on each area of your face for best results.
If you choose a chemical exfoliant, opt for BHA. BHA (usually salicylic acid) is a group of oil-soluble acids. Therefore, BHA is capable of removing excess oil deep within the pores, making it most suitable for oily skin.
How to exfoliate acne-prone skin.
Here, Harper's Bazaar distinguishes between oily and acne-prone skin, although they can sometimes be grouped together. It's true that people with oily skin often get acne, due to the easy accumulation of excess oil, dirt, and dead skin cells deep within the pores, leading to breakouts. However, there are also dry, acne-prone skin types, sensitive, acne-prone skin, etc. Therefore, acne-prone skin should be viewed as a distinct skin condition.
Acne-prone skin is susceptible to damage from inflammatory acne. Therefore, you need to minimize irritation. Absolutely avoid using mechanical exfoliants with coarse particles. These scrub particles will scratch the skin's surface, creating conditions for more acne breakouts.
Option: Chemical exfoliants. AHAs or BHAs help remove acne-causing agents at their root. BHA is preferred for acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. BHA also helps improve skin texture and stimulates the skin to heal acne scars.
Note: If you have both sensitive and acne-prone skin, consult a doctor before choosing a chemical exfoliant.
For combination skin that tends to be dry:
If you have combination skin that tends to be dry, you can combine both physical and chemical exfoliants. Combination skin that tends to be dry is less sensitive to exfoliation. You also won't need to worry about using physical exfoliants because your skin is less prone to acne.
Choose a physical exfoliant with small, fine granules. After exfoliating, you should moisturize with a serum and a moisturizer.
For combination skin that tends to be oily:
For combination skin that tends to be oily, you can use a gentle physical or chemical exfoliant.
Option: Physical exfoliating pads. They offer the perfect combination of mechanical and chemical exfoliation. Pads typically use cotton pads soaked in a mixture of AHAs/BHA. The acids in the pad are then absorbed into your face. Afterward, use the pad to gently massage your face to activate the physical exfoliation process.
Suggestion: You can store the product in the refrigerator to create a cooling sensation when applying the pad to your skin.
How to exfoliate aging skin:
Aging skin has an increasingly weakened protective barrier, tends to become sensitive, and easily loses moisture. You shouldn't exfoliate too often, as this can damage the skin's protective layer excessively. Once or twice a week is sufficient.
However, you shouldn't stop exfoliating completely. Exfoliation supports cell renewal and allows active ingredients to penetrate the skin.
The best option is a gentle chemical exfoliant. These can penetrate deeper into the skin to improve the appearance of wrinkles. Products combining AHAs and BHAs are the best choice for aging skin.
If you have the financial means, you can try PHA (Poly Hydroxy Acid). PHA has the ability to retain water, helping to increase skin hydration, while also effectively exfoliating dead skin cells. PHA is gentler than AHA and BHA.
Another option is a skin massage using silkworm cocoons. This is a skincare method used by Japanese geishas. The sericin secreted from silkworm cocoons has been shown to increase skin elasticity, fight aging, and remove dirt and dead skin cells accumulated deep within pores.
How to exfoliate sensitive facial skin:
For sensitive skin, you should avoid using mechanical exfoliating products. Scrub-type products can irritate the skin and lead to damage.
Your choice: Peeling gel. When the gel comes into contact with the face, it forms "dead skin" particles, which are the old, dead skin cells. This means you don't need to apply harsh pressure to your skin to exfoliate. Note that you shouldn't use the product on wet skin. Water will prevent the silicone in the gel from coming into contact with the skin's oils, thus preventing the formation of these "dead skin" particles.
If you want to use a chemical exfoliant on sensitive skin, choose a rinse-off type to minimize the risk of irritation. Examples include facial cleansing gels. If you prefer using a toner, choose one with a low acid concentration and apply it to your skin with a cotton pad to control the amount of product applied and to specific areas.
If you have acne, apply salicylic acid directly to the pimples.
For normal facial skin:
You're lucky if you have skin that isn't allergic or sensitive to any ingredients. For normal skin, you can freely choose chemical or physical exfoliants. Furthermore, you don't need to use highly concentrated, specialized products. Instead, choose products with natural ingredients and plenty of moisturizers to prevent your skin from losing its natural moisture.
If you choose a mechanical exfoliating product, keep in mind: You should use a physical exfoliant on wet skin to reduce friction. Water will help the particles move more smoothly, causing less damage to the skin.
How often should you exfoliate?
The frequency of exfoliation depends on your skin type and condition. It also depends on the concentration and ingredients of the product you are using. For dry or aging skin, exfoliating 1-2 times a week is suitable. Oily skin should exfoliate more frequently.
Note: You should stop using the exfoliating product if your skin shows signs of redness, inflammation, peeling, or irritation before or after use. If you are using certain acne treatments such as retinol or benzoyl peroxide, the exfoliating product may worsen your acne.
